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Nov 16th,
2003 'The Finale'
The last few days of our trip blurred together until only the thought of us drenched in the Pacific remained in focus. Each kilometer covered brought us closer to our native stomping grounds (and our more sensible 5 or 10km running routes). A full day on Friday (the 14th) took us right into the centre of Langley and set us up for a short 40km jaunt on Saturday to the ferries. We spent our last night in the motorhome on the 13th and slept in familiar beds at our mom's on the 14th and 15th. It would have been quite easy to sleep-in and call things finished at this point seeing as how we had technically made it home, and not to mention that the weather reports suggested that our last two days on the road would be very wet and very windy. We enjoyed the comforts of being in a home and reconnecting with loved ones; however, neither of us felt entirely at ease in these comforts after having been away for such a while and also because we knew that we weren't finished just yet. We set off at a more sensible hour on the 15th on our way towards Tsawwassen and the ferry to Vancouver Island. The wind began to stir as Wes made his way onto the dyke that runs along Boundary Bay in Delta. It was the 15th of June when we left the Atlantic behind us and now, five months later, we came upon the Pacific. Steady rain came and joined the wind just as Wes' friend, Jason, showed up and joined him. It was before dinnertime when, wet-to-the-bone, Wes and Jason reached the goal for the day and we all headed for shelter.
A much-anticipated day, Sunday the 16th of November, was here at last. This, of course, was the final day of our adventure. As a throwback to our time in Quebec, it was Wes, Kelly, and I (Dano) that started the day together. A complimentary 7AM ferry ride (thanks BC Ferries) shuttled us smoothly across the Georgia Strait to Vancouver Island. The low-key morning was dominated by pretty serious rain and grey skies as Wes made his way towards the Greater Victoria city limits. He was looking quite soggy (picture very wet dog) and yet resoundingly confident when the first camera crew showed up just after noon to capture our intrepid traveler on film. With this pit stop out of the way we pressed on until we reached the 'Welcome to Victoria' sign just passed Elk Lake. Here we took another quick break from the rain and then Wes was off again and disappeared down the hill leading towards downtown. Just after he faded from sight, a convoy of cars showed up full of our friends and family. We all shared a spirited greeting on the side of the busy highway on this true west coast day (wet and windy). We realized that one thing that was missing in this whole equation was Wes, so we all made our way further down the road to get ahead of him and reconvene as a group. We were more than 30 strong as we waited outside of a Starbucks for Wes to appear. The weather did little to dampen our spirits and a buzz was certainly in the air. Soon Wes came into sight and cameras were readied as we all left our shelter under the roof to meet him. I don't know if it was seeing friends and family for the first time together or if it may have been the Venti mocha on an empty stomach that got Wes buzzing, but emotions started swirling just under his rain drenched surface. After a good many hugs and photos, Wes set off on the last leg of his run across Canada with less than 4km to go.
The Mile '0' marker is at the south tip of Vancouver Island on a bluff high above the ocean in Beacon Hill Park. We all regrouped together one final time at the marker that also represented the finish line. Old and new family and friends were there. The media was there. Bottles of champagne (some good, some Baby Duck) and air-horns were also close at hand. It was certainly not ideal spectator weather, but the driving wind and rain was alive and raw- perfect for the end of a long adventure! I left all the commotion behind and ran back to meet my bro so we could share the last segment of our journey together. We were on opposite sides of the road when we crossed paths and we were both so much in the groove that we almost missed one another- fortunately we didn't! Instead we spent a few minutes chatting and reflecting beneath some large trees in the park before we headed together towards the finish. And so it was just before 3pm on November 16, 2003 that Wes and I ran together passed the Mile '0' marker through showers of champagne and the blasting of air-horns to successfully complete our coast-to-coast journey across Canada. The boisterous support and encouragement of everyone in attendance assured that welled up emotions were able to flow freely at this point. After doing a quick interview, Wes raced across the street and headed towards the water. I did my best to keep up with him to be a part of our long awaited plunge into the Pacific. We immersed ourselves in the water to officially mark the end of our trip as the waves crashed around us with exclamation. We all retreated from the stormy weather to a nearby house for some warmth and shelter and, of course, food and visiting. Wes and I were so grateful that such a great group had made the trip and endured the elements to be a part of this day with us.
Ten days have passed since we finished and that feels like just
a moment and yet an eternity ago. Both Wes and I are still shaking
off the culture shock and trying to settle into the clean slate
that was waiting for us at home. The freedom we both have is exciting
and daunting as we try to quickly ground ourselves. One thing that
is certain, although the memories and experiences will likely continue
to evolve, is that we have had the great fortune of doing something
that is very unique. We have banked a wealth of distinct encounters
and new relationships. We have had considerable time to reflect
on our lives and do our best to calibrate them so that things that
truly matter are put at the forefront. We have taken a chunk of
time that is seldom afforded to two individuals in this hectic world
and fortified a bond that is raw and real…and forever. We have learned
(or been reminded) that being yourself and doing everything in your
power to make every encounter a positive one yields amazing results.
So grab the reigns and steer your life in the direction you want
it to go, dole out hugs freely, and work on your smile lines. Thanks
so much for being a part of our adventure! The support and encouragement
we received along the way will remain an essential part of the overall
success of the CanadaRun. We are busy editing video from the trip
that we will be posting on the website, so be sure to check in again.
Take care and thank you…
Nov 13th,
2003
We have been getting spoiled with just how amazing the mornings have been recently. The moon was out in force again when we got going today and it lit all the peaks around us aglow. We felt a similar element of remoteness and majesty in this deep moonlit valley along the Coquihalla as we had experienced when we went through Rogers Pass (on a smaller scale, however). By early morning we had already passed through Hope and the Coastal Mountains began to open up as we entered the Fraser Valley. Almost instantly it felt as though we had left winter behind us and were emerging on a gorgeous fall day. Things became more and more familiar to us throughout the day as we met up with the Fraser River and passed by Bridal Falls. Evening rolled around right on schedule and we rounded the last bend before Chilliwack. A road parallel to the highway appeared and sitting there on the shoulder was Barb (our Suburban), piloted by our dad. Together we made our way towards central Chilliwack and soon several people came out to join us or greet us as we made our way through the friendly community. We began the day isolated in the mountains and 71km later found ourselves happily back in civilization.
Nov 12th,
2003
Wes set off under the bright moonlight and worked his way up towards the Coquihalla toll booth and the summit just beyond. We had tried ahead of time to see if we could get the $10 toll waived, but we were told that the chances of that happening were zero (we were also assured that the toll attendant would likely be bitter and void of humour, so don't expect a smile- that is not included in your toll…). Wes did the limbo under a closed gate as we passed the cheerless toll booth and we continued on our way. A little further up the road we came to the 1244m summit of the Coquihalla and then began the descent that takes us all the way to the sea. At this point I caught Wes sucking in a deep breath of mountain air and I could tell he was savouring it thoughtfully. A tinge of sorrow hung in the air as it dawned on us that this was our last full day away from civilization and soon this adventure would be over. Fortunately this moment passed as the thought of an impending hot shower helped to dispel any unduly romantic notions about life on the road. We carried on and after lunch we were joined by our third road guest in as many days. Our dad, who has been faithfully involved with our journey, had flown out to Calgary to pick up the Suburban and trailer (we shamelessly deserted them in exchange for our motorhome) and was on his way back towards Vancouver. His trip was a bit more exciting than it needed to be as both of the trailer tires went flat on him within 100km of one another. He didn't puncture them on anything, they were just so worn that they no longer were willing to hold any air. It is funny (in a cruel kind of way) that I have had no problems with the tires in five months and my neglect unraveled in just half a day of driving for my poor dad. He shortly left on his way again and Wes and I were left to spend a last night wandering in the wild together.
Nov 11th,
2003
It was a civilized 8:30AM when we began to stir in our warm beds this morning. Today is our last rest day before our five day push to Victoria and we savoured the long sleep. Time constraints are such that we still need to cover roughly 40km today, so 'rest' is somewhat figurative and 'deep breath' is probably more appropriate. We spent the morning running around doing one final stock up (and a desperate attack on the frozen pipes- to some success). Above, the sky was manic as snow, rain, and hail threatened and fell from the black clouds that were battling with the sunshine. It was close to 1:00 before we headed the 4km north of Merritt to where we had left off yesterday. I dropped Wes off and then found a 'No U-Turn, Emergency Vehicles Only' break in the highway and flagrantly broke the law. I guess most people that drive the Coquihalla or the Merritt to Kamloops road probably know which way they are going and don't need a place to turn around. But, if you did need to -as I did- it is a 50km drive towards Kamloops (that is a 100km detour, if you're willing…) before you are legally allowed to turn around. I would call this a significant short-coming.
Wes plodded his way up the Coquihalla, while I struggled to find
safe places to pull over. One of our stops had us precariously perched
on a narrow shoulder, high above the valley. If you could do something
about the traffic, this would be a lovely spot to build a home with
a big deck looking out on the valley and ridges beyond… Wes was
quickly on his way again and I lingered for just long enough for
a familiar car to pull up behind me. Guess who?!? Mom and Reg!!!
Laden with a basket of goodies and a cooler full of food and drink
for dinner, they had made the 3 hour drive to pay us an unexpected,
but very welcomed visit. We chatted for a bit before we drove ahead
to catch up with Wes. Reg stayed back and mom hid herself so Wes
was unaware of them when he came in for a break. After a few minutes
of our usual banter, an opportunity arose for mom to interject from
where she was hidden. Much to Wes' confusion, she appeared. We spent
the next few hours happily entertaining (a very rare treat for us),
while still trying to cover some distance. Wes went on his way again
and when he reappeared for dinner he was noticeably unnerved. A
highly aggressive coyote (which is highly unusual) had stalked Wes
for several kilometers, twice actually trying to attack him. It
certainly would be a shame, so close to the finish and all, to have
Wes mauled and eaten by a scrawny little scavenger. Wes was half
amused and three quarters on edge as he ate amongst the good company.
With still some distance yet to go, we bid a big thanks and farewell
to our guests. They drove the R.V. ahead of us so Wes and I could
go together into the wild darkness. There were no signs of any killer
little animals for the rest of the night, so we just trudged along
under the moonlight, watching as jet-streams lit up like blazing
comets passing through the crisp night sky.
Nov 10th,
2003
Seemingly right on cue, snowflakes began streaming out of the sky just as Wes took his first steps this morning. The system didn't have much in the way of endurance and soon fizzled out, leaving Wes with 2-3cm of fluffy cushioning on the road's shoulder. The temperature started to rise and soon this cushioning became a shoe-soaking, soupy mess. A car pulled up just as Wes was coming in to make a shoe pit stop and out came the Loptsons (old friends from when we lived up north), with pizza in hand. The damp cold and the passing semi's may have cut the visit a bit short, but we certainly enjoyed this encounter from out of our past. We crested the Clapperton Creek Summit (the highest one left in our path- 1445m) and made our way down the 19km hill into Merritt. We were guided by the warm, half-light of the moon (technically speaking, the road guided us and the moon just cast some light on everything…) as we descended into the serene Nicola Valley.
Nov 9th,
2003
It was gorgeous out when we got going this morning. The very bright, very full (I think) moon was casting its light across the sky and shimmering brightly off the river beside us. The air was crisp and pure. Near us, a local rooster was giving his full cock-a-doodle approval of this good morning. We too, felt a desire to give an 'its good to be alive' yodel, but seeing as daylight was still an hour away, it seemed that the rooster was getting a little ahead of himself. Then it came to us: he accidentally got set back two hours when we switched to daylight savings a few weeks back… The moonlight melted into the early morning glow as Wes pushed towards Kamloops. As we approached the city it dawned on us that one week from today we will be FINISHED!!!!! Aye carumba!!! That seems hard to believe. At this point we both thought that this journey would continue indefinitely. I wonder if our bodies will keep moving for a while after we're finished- like after spending a fair amount of time on a boat. Wes might become a pacer: to and fro in perpetual motion. Anyways, we rounded the bend onto the #5 highway west of Kamloops and started on the last stretch towards the coast. Our schedule is still quite tight and sleep has been cut short lately, so we unfortunately had to skip a visit with some friends from long ago (16 years ago actually) that we passed by in Kamloops. One great thing that has come from this trip is the number of long dormant relationships that have been re-established. Soon our pavement pilgrimage will be over and we will be able to nurture relationships new and old.
Nov 8th,
2003
Wes met me at one of the local Tim Horton's on his way through Salmon
Arm this morning. Usually this pit-stop gets the day off to a good
start, but today we got waylaid. I was told that the sour cream
glazed Timbits would be ready in six minutes, so I decided to wait
for these ultra fresh guys. The wait ended up being more than 20
minutes and by then, Wes had already hit the road again. Unfortunately
we lost some time, but for my patience I was given far more Timbits
than we needed or, in hindsight, should have eaten. About 15km and
many, many Timbits later, we turned off the dangerous, winding highway
and spent the rest of the day meandering passed vineyards and friendly
dogs on a very pleasant back road. The warmth in the air seemed
to thaw Wes out just enough to make him aware of the aches throughout
his body. Once again, thanks vitamin 'I' (Ibuprofen). The day waned
and the darkness came to this valley swiftly and deeply, much like
our sleep.
Nov 7th, 2003
The past couple of days have seemed quite low-key; maybe it's because
we're familiar with the surroundings, or perhaps we are just focused
on the fast approaching finish line. Regardless, I'm left here to
scan my inventory-deprived memory bank for something other than
filler- I value our network ratings too much (have they slipped
any lower?!?) to waste your time with inane banter. Ah ha, here
we go…I just remembered something somewhat interesting! This morning
we got up at 4AM and found ourselves plugged into a little generator
that had, during the night, run out of gas. We were nestled up against
a very rustic cabin in the woods with an impressive collection of
beer cans and cigarette packages strewn everywhere. We felt a little
sluggish, but if memory serves us correctly, the beer and cigarettes
had not been consumed by either of us. Where were we and how did
we end up here? Well, Wes was befriended by a man named Jim during
the last portion of his run yesterday and he had insisted that we
come back to his place for a beer, or to at least plug in our camper
for the night. We had a little visit and remarked at his seemingly
very different way of life (a one-room cabin plumbed with spring
water from the side of the mountain, an outhouse, and no electricity),
and then we retired to bed. His hospitality was gracious and unlooked-for;
however, this encounter added yet another textured piece to the
patch-work quilt we have woven along our journey.
Nov 6th, 2003
We were up before the bars closed this morning, chasing after the
light. The sun rises and sets on us early, here in the mountainous
eastern reaches of the Pacific Time zone. Wes cruised passed Revelstoke
on his way to 46km before lunch; while I tried to maximize the short
time we had in the town and the brief window of cellular coverage.
The rest of the day was pretty low key so I thought I would mix
things up and tell you a joke that we heard in Saskatchewan. Here
goes…
A cattle farmer looked out on his herd one day and realized that
he had to do something about his ageing breeding bull. The old bull
had served the farmer well, but the farmer no longer felt that he
would be able to manage the large herd of lovely bovines. More concerning
for the farmer was that the next oldest bull did not appear quite
mature enough to replace the old one. Unbeknownst to the farmer,
the old bull and this younger bull had already spoken at length
about this issue and had agreed that in the new breeding season
they would share the duty. In this way, the new bull would be eased
into service as the old bull eased out. One evening the farmer ended
up at the bar feeling heavy with his unsolved burden. A neighbour
pulled up beside him and they talked at length about his problem.
It turns out that the neighbour had a very frisky, very massive
bull that he could lend the farmer for the season. And so that was
that. One afternoon, as the old and young bull eagerly awaited the
upcoming breeding season, a cattle truck backed up to the pasture.
The gates swung open and a massive, snorting bull came raging out.
The herd was whipped into an uncertain frenzy and the old and young
bull exchanged confused glances. Suddenly the young bull started
snorting and aggressively pawed the dirt. The old bull raced over
to the young one and tried to calm him. He said, "Are you crazy?
That guy will pulverize you. What are you doing?!!" The young bull
replied, "I'm not challenging him; I just want him to know that
I'm a bull!"
Nov 5th, 2003
Seeing as today is a rest day, we slept in and leisurely drifted
through the morning. While Wes was taking some time to rest his
body, I thought I would address some of our motorhome woes. Back
on Nov 2nd, I discovered that all our drainage pipes were frozen
and I decided, perhaps unwisely, to leave that battle for another
day. Today, upon further inspection, I was tempted to leave it for
yet another day. The exit pipes (the motorhome's, not ours), for
both the grey and black water, were totally frozen and we tried
unsuccessfully to thaw them out. The sink is now backed up as the
water refuses to drain down into the blocked tanks and pipes. Fortunately,
the water pump stopped working at some point in the night, so no
more water can come out of the taps to increase the existing pools.
No water also means that the toilet won't flush, but seeing as the
bathroom/shower is already somewhat flooded with grey water that
has come back up the shower drain, we aren't venturing in there
anyways. With very sub-zero temperatures lingering, our options
seem limited to finding a heated garage or taking a long southward
drive. In the meantime, however, we have exhausted virtually all
of our kitchenware and heaped it in a precarious pile in and about
the sink. Meal planning is simple: eat and drink what you can out
of the box, with your hands if you can. Upon reflection, this episode
appears to be something that we devised out of boredom. Regardless,
Wes proved his wisdom when he left our mutual disaster zone and
instead put in 32km in the fresh trouble-free mountain air.
Nov 4th, 2003
After a later night than normal, we were a little slow to get going
this morning. It was clear and cold again as Wes headed out, although
we don't really have any clue what the temperature has been lately.
We are thankful that it is dry; the cold he can bundle up against.
The crisp air made the gargantuan peaks stand out resoundingly around
us against the clear blue sky. We passed into Glacier National Park
and rolled our watches back an hour as we joined Pacific Time. With
the clocks adjusted, it was now time for lunch and we excitedly
cranked up the oven to indulge in some frozen pre-made pizzas.
Light failed in the early evening and the vastness seemed to swell
around us as we climbed into Rogers Pass. I have left Wes out on
the road by himself for most of the way from Calgary, but for both
of our comfort, I joined him now in the darkness. We were able to
shake off the discomfort quickly and savour the remoteness of where
we found ourselves. The moon was hidden behind the towering peaks
on our left, but cast a warm light on the tops of the mountains
to our right. Traffic was quite light and the silence was penetrating.
It is difficult to convey how it felt to wander in the midst of
this rugged area under moonlight. The stars were glittering sharply
above as the mountains seemed to close in on us. It wasn't unlike
Frodo and Sam traveling together through Middle-earth in 'The Lord
of the Rings.' We were both entirely awestruck. Wes and I have done
many adventurous things, but this was a rush…totally exhilarating.
To step it up a notch, the dark snowsheds appeared before us; Wes
caught his breath for just long enough to watch some semi's come
barreling in and out of these particularly dark tunnels. There was
space enough for him to pass through without any incident, but his
heart was certainly beating aggressively. I passed through the last
tunnel ahead of him in the RV and then pulled out the video camera
to watch him come out behind me. It turns out that this was the
only snowshed that didn't have a raised ledge for him to walk along
and it left Wes somewhat more vulnerable. I saw his blinking lights
come frantically towards me as the bright lights of a semi began
to engulf the tunnel. He safely popped out just before the semi
roared by him. I was vividly reminded of the movie 'Stand by Me'
when the train nearly ran the boys off of the train bridge. Exciting
stuff!!! We were just west of the summit of Rogers Pass when tired
bodies and bone chilling cold got the better of us and we retreated
to our beds for the night.
Nov 3rd, 2003
If Wes had wheels, today would have been an easy day for him. He
spent the majority of the day winding his way down… and down… the
Kicking Horse Pass. The shallow snow on the shoulder provided some
cushioning for him as he let himself coast down towards the valley.
As I was also coasting downhill in 'Katinka' (our motorhome), I
was thinking to myself that nothing too exciting has happened to
us in the past few days. It has been beautiful, yes, and we have
seen plenty of wildlife, but we have certainly been lacking some
good, wholesome adventure. I pondered this further as I sat idling
in a construction line-up. A few different ideas came to mind…and
then I ran out of gas. Perfect!! These sorts of avoidable and dimwitted
mishaps are always the start of great adventures! So, feeling like
an all-star, I coasted onto the shoulder and went to chat with one
of the construction workers. This potentially long-winded story
was cut remarkably short when the woman I spoke with (she didn't
tell me her name, but she was the first aid attendant- Cheryl or
Shelly, I think) reached into the bed of her pick-up and gave me
a full jerry-can. I can't recall a smoother or more perfectly choreographed
ending to one of my adventures. I don't actually know if this qualifies
as an adventure, seeing as it ended up being more convenient than
stopping for gas in the first place (and cheaper…). I brought some
hot chocolate and cookies to her and the 'lady of the flag' (I don't
like 'flag-person') as a humble thank-you, and then was on my way
again. In self-defense, we got barely more than 300km on a full
tank from our new support vehicle and we both expected to make it
comfortably into Golden, just 10km down the road.
The Kicking Horse Pass quickly opened up into the Columbia River
valley below and upon the town of Golden. As we came up to the first
set of businesses, we found ourselves in the midst of a herd of
bighorn sheep. This not-so-savvy herd of 20 was causing traffic
mayhem as they darted, or wandered, back and forth across the highway.
They seemed far more concerned with ramming heads, sniffing one-another,
urinating, or feeding from their moms, than with the oncoming cars
and trucks. With natural instincts as dull as these, we don't suppose
we will see this herd again. We did see a gigantic bald eagle flying
along the river as Wes worked his way passed Golden for a solid
69km on the day. He was joined on the last leg by Karen, a long-time
friend of ours. I know that he appreciated having a companion in
the darkness, especially a new companion. They finished up just
after 8:00 pm and we headed back to Karen's place for a nice little
visit with her and her husband Mike (and their new baby, Adam).
Nov 2nd, 2003
The cold morning air was so fresh and pure that it felt like it
was drawing out all our impurities. If this pure mountain air was
what they used in those briefly-trendy oxygen bars, I think they
may have caught on. The low moon was casting a silhouette of jagged
peaks towards us from the south, revealing the numerous fresh animal
tracks that ran across the snow-dusted road. Fiery hues set the
mountain peaks ablaze- as we had hoped for- as the light crept across
the morning sky. We were certainly doing our best to take in everything
around us. Wes jogged through the morning as we neared Lake Louise.
While he was busy with that, I set off to find a sani-dump for the
dark grey water (grey and black if you will) from our R.V. After
going through the steps a few times in my mind to avoid any mishaps,
I took off the outlet valve-cover to discover that things were backed
up, err…actually frozen solid. I know that I have witnessed plugged
drains before, but never quite like this. I put the cover back on
and decided to leave this battle for another day. We pushed through
Lake Louise before enjoying what would be our last meal in Alberta
on this trip. Just a few kilometers beyond where we had stopped
for lunch, a long awaited sign appeared before us… 'Welcome to British
Columbia'!!!! Understandably, Wes lingered here for a bit to savour,
or perhaps ponder this milestone along his journey. After nearly
five months away, our journey has led us back again to the 'left-coast'.
Nov 1st, 2003
The shear peaks around Canmore were veiled in clouds this morning
as we made our way through the town. The local Tim Horton's was
not so easily concealed, however, and Wes made a brave dash down
the steep embankment from the highway, through the deep snow to
reach it. These particular sour cream glazed Timbits tasted all
the better for his effort. The sky began to clear in the early afternoon-
just in time to reveal the truly awesome scenery surrounding Banff.
We made a quick pit stop in the townsite of Banff to get a temporary
national park 'work' permit for our time in Banff and Yoho National
Parks, and also to pick up some warmer gear for Wes (yes, it is
still cold). As we were leaving from the town, we watched as two
large Elk battled against one-another on the side of the road. We
have both seen this type of thing in Banff before, but it still
seems somewhat odd to have to make way for large wild animals in
the middle of a busy town. Wes continued to push westward towards
Lake Louise as the light began to fail in the early evening. At
this point we decided to leave the highway and join the quieter
1A that would also lead us to Lake Louise. This is the scenic back
route and, fittingly, we quickly came upon some deer grazing in
the snow. As darkness took a stronger hold, Wes noticed a large
Elk lying very near the road, lazily chewing its cud. We were startled
by it, but the Elk seemed entirely unconcerned. As the darkness
grew very thick around us, Wes began to wonder if some other less
friendly animals, namely bears, would be more interested in him.
So for peace of mind (both of us) I drove slowly beside Wes for
the last 10km of the day. With survival fears somewhat lessened,
we were able to enjoy the clear night with the flecks of frozen
moisture dancing around us like snow.
Oct 31th,
2003
A forecasted high of -7C was not the most encouraging bit of news
we had for today. It did not seem to knock Wes off track at all,
however, and he just bundled up appropriately. The crisp air made
the blue sky and white mountains stand out with captivating sharpness-
it was easy to be drawn towards them. On he pushed, alone (it was
cold out!), as the wind picked up and swirled wisps of snow all
around him. A trucker passed him at one point and let out the most
terrifically obnoxious honk. The honk didn't fade until the truck
itself had disappeared over the hills. Fortunately the shoulders
of the road were all plowed and made it relatively easy going for
Wes as he worked his way into the mountains. He managed to put in
61km despite a later start as well as the less-than-optimal temperatures.
We drove to Dead Man's Flats and plugged into a gas station for
the night. And so ends our Halloween... or does it?! Warm and happily
dreaming, I woke up to find Wes stirring about the RV. The coffee
was brewing and when I grudgingly opened my eyes, I saw that Wes
was dressed for the day and almost ready to set off. Maybe it was
just because I was very fond of my warm bed, but it did not feel
like we had slept through the night. Wes had woken up to the alarm
on his phone and waited until the snooze alarm sounded 10 minutes
later before getting up. Now, however, he cursed (plural) as he
suddenly discovered that it was actually only 11:00pm on Friday
night and his phone had rung because it had been called by two separate
friends- well past our bed-time. It took until he woke up in the
morning before he found it as amusing as I did.
Oct 30th,
2003
I am doing my best to conceal the total giddiness that is flowing
through me. The only reason I have to keep it under wraps right
now is out of fairness to Wes, who is currently outside. You see…
it is -19C out there and inside our swanky new digs, the furnace
vent is warming my feet. Courtesy of the good folks at Fraserway
RV (and Phil- thanks buddy), we have a motorhome for the last leg
of our journey and we really couldn't be more excited. You can probably
understand our excitement somewhat, but here are some of the pros;
separate beds (no more elbows in one-another's side/head etc.),a
coffee maker, space to change or dance or strut, a table to sit
at and gloat, a real fridge, heat and hot water, and oh yeah…a bathroom!!!!!!
Sitting here on this Halloween morning, the glow of the dawn is
just coming up on the majestic Rockies in front of us- things are
good. We have had a tremendously productive and busy few days in
Calgary and we are officially on our way again. When I last updated
you, it was 25C out at that point, so yes, the weather has changed.
Calgary got whooped with its first real snow storm on Tuesday night
and, unfortunately, no Chinook came to save the day. The traffic
nightmare that it caused made getting around the city a real hassle.
However, this nasty weather certainly allowed us to play the sympathy
card and helped to attract media to our event. A radio interview
with CBC and then T.V. interviews with CTV, Global, and Shaw made
Wednesday a busy day. Later in the evening, we joined a running
group for a scenic winter jaunt along the Bow River.
Originally we were planning to start moving again on Thursday morning,
but after revealing in our 15 minutes of fame for most of Wednesday,
we realized that we still had a few things to do before we could
leave. Correction, we had endless things to do. Over the three days
that we were in Cow Town, we spent considerable time at the Sole
Custom Footbeds office, trying to cross everything off our list.
In between our racing around, we visited with some friends and also
our brother, Mike, who flew out to spend some time with us. Soon,
our aggressive November 15th planned arrival in Victoria began to
loom even larger as the light faded on Thursday- and we still weren't
on the move. We quickly wrapped everything up and joined the masses
in the painfully slow traffic heading westwards towards COP (Calgary
Olympic Park) to pick up were we had left off. Wes put in a quick
15km before we headed to a nearby building to plug in our new power-hungry
support vehicle for the night. Having done everything productive
that we could think of and squeezing it into three days, we were
gone from Calgary. We have now only to focus on the nearly 1000km
to cover in just over two weeks…
Oct 26th,
2003
When we went to sleep last night we weren't sure if the clocks were
going back an hour. We decided that we would leave it up to Wes'
cell phone to figure it out for us (the system would adjust accordingly,
we surmised) and set the alarm for 4AM. It did its thing and we
happily hopped out into the 14C air feeling pretty rested. We listened
to the radio as we ate breakfast and, of course, learned that it
was only just after 3AM. It certainly gave us a good jump on the
day as we headed for the east side of Calgary. For some reason or
another, as the mountains drew nearer, we started to squabble a
fair bit. It seems that our overflow pressure-release valve wasn't
working and there was some built up steam (24 hours a day of either
one of us is a lot). Looking at the calendar, we probably were overdue
for a brotherly tussle in a wheat field. Instead we did some chirping
at one another as the excess steam vented. Fortunately, that passed,
and we were able to enjoy the view of the mountains and the appearing
skyline as we worked towards the city in the 25C heat. As the evening
rolled in, the headwind surfaced again and bathed us in warm, hair-dryer-like
air. We decided to call it a day at 68km- with the city limits just
beyond us- and gaily (like screaming school-boys and girls actually)
we headed to our friends house with the thought of showers and real
beds dancing in our heads.
Oct 25th,
2003
Recently, our 'rest' days have been used to bank some extra, leisurely
kilometers. So after sleeping in somewhat, Wes started his way up
the long hill that we had stopped at the bottom of yesterday. He
crested it, and there in the distance, low and behold…MOUNTAINS!!!!!
Not just any mountains, either. These big jagged bad boys (or girls)
just happen to be The Rockies and as such, the boundary of the long
reaching Prairie was now finally in sight. The cold start to the
day gave way to warmer and warmer temperatures and, taa-daa…no wind!
It is a rest day, remember and the wind was certainly in need of
a break after all the overtime it has put in lately. Wes still put
in the equivalent of about three laps around Stanley Park, 31km,
which will make our stroll into Calgary on Monday that much more
of a stroll. As we prepared to hop into the back of the car for
the night, it dawned on us that this was going to be our last night
sleeping in Barb. We are staying with friends in Calgary starting
tomorrow and then we have a motor home, courtesy of Fraserway RV,
for the last leg of the trip. With this sweet, sweet thought in
mind we easily slipped into sleep.
Oct 24th,
2003
I asked Wes if anything particularly exciting happened to him today,
and he just mumbled something about the darn wind. Unfortunately,
that didn't really help to trigger anything distinct about this
specific Friday in October, especially considering that the wind
has been mentioned a lot lately. So as I sit wondering what to write,
it seems to me that a short update may be in order after yesterday's
long-winded one. So today, as creativity is in short supply, I'll
do a Coles Notes version for everyone's benefit (mine too). Here
goes; wind, oil rigs, oil wells, oil related equipment, so many
cattle that I would call them schools rather than herds, pick-up
trucks and more pick-up trucks, and lots of cowboy hats. Yes, we
are in Alberta. At times I saw Wes fighting the wind and when his
foot came off the ground for his next step, his leg would literally
get pushed backwards. Every direction he tried to walk in (or we
tried to pee in) was met with a headwind- here, there is no such
thing as a tailwind. The good news is that tomorrow is a rest day
and this last stretch has gone by quickly, despite the wind. A friendly
exchange with some entertaining American gentlemen doing some geese
hunting ended the day on an 'up' note.
Oct 23rd,
2003
With Calgary only four travel days away, Wes got right down to business
working the kilometers off. While he was doing that, I was getting
a talking to from a rather matter of fact officer. The first thing
he said was "what am I standing on?" I thought to myself; feet,
shoes, ground, pavement. When I looked down, there was some blue
ribbon under his feet so I decided to go with that as my guess.
Wrong! It was a yellow line and he informed me that yellow equals
no parking. So apparently I was not only parked 'dangerously' but
illegally as well. I found out very early on this trip that it really
is hard to find reserved, handicapped, designated, or special-event-vehicle
parking on the highway and I am left to make a judgment call when
I pull over. When I asked this officer how I should best park in
the future, he suggested using some flares. After doing some in
depth financial analysis, I decided that using our food budget to
buy 20 flares a day may not be a good judgment call in itself. Suddenly
I was missing the friendly officers that had been watching over
us earlier and bringing us hot chocolate (thanks Rob, what up O.P.P!).
When I caught up to Wes, the wind was toying with him. These dangerously
strong side-winds were forcing him to stagger like a drunk and I
worried that the officer might show up and make him walk the white
(not yellow) line. This darn wind was so strong that it was slowing
truck traffic down to a crawl as their trailers swerved frantically
behind them. I tried to get Wes to help me with a little water and
wind experiment, but he declined (see October 18th). As he got going
again the wind shifted so that it was once again a headwind, and
now some very nasty clouds were getting blown towards us. I think
that this is the point in the day when I decided to stay in the
car and read my book. Bundled up in the car I was soon joined by
a friendly man from Medicine Hat that had something to offer to
us. He had seen Wes blinking in the dark last night and his company,
LED Innovations, make reflective vests with LED's embedded into
them. Bill kindly gave us one that he insured would make Wes far
more visible in the darkness. Judging by the clouds gathering, the
vest might be put to use before lunch.
Oh boy, this update is already getting long and we aren't at lunch
yet…hope I'm not boring anyone. We found a covered picnic area in
the town of Tilley, but the biting wind made it not altogether fun
to prepare food. After lunch we had some fun however, as the mud
in the parking lot was as slick as ice. We did some sideways laps
around the horse-shoe pits in the Suburban, before getting stuck
trying to get up the exit road. There was so much mud everywhere
that the tires on the trailer weren't spinning anymore, it was just
dragging. Our shoes were caked with literally an inch of mud on
the bottom. Now Barb really needs a wash. The weather passed and
Wes was off again into the afternoon. Another not-so-friendly individual
pulled up in his pick-up and decided to let me know his thoughts
about me being parked facing the wrong direction on a farm road.
I should have offered him a Yellow Pages to sit on to help him feel
like a bigger man. With the nasty weather and crusty parking militia
behind us, we continued just passed Brooks on the day. An amazing
lightning storm was going on to the north of us, lighting up the
late evening sky and illuminating the puffy white clouds in that
part of the horizon. I went to meet Wes as he finished the last
leg of the day and I was overcome by the most hideous smell that
I have ever endured. When I got to Wes, I was retching and his eyes
were bugging out of his head. We think that it was an open sewage
lagoon next to the road, but it was dark and we didn't want to know.
There was a skunk dead on the side of the road and I don't think
that he was roadkill, but instead was overcome by this truly terrible
smell. I need to take back what I said yesterday about Wes' socks
and the whole 'gas city' thing, because after this, I no longer
fear any unpleasant odour he may produce (I don't always smell like
roses either, I know).
Oct 22nd,
2003
Wes quickly worked his way into Medicine Hat and, you guessed it,
we found ourselves in a Tim Horton's shortly thereafter. While Wes
continued his way through 'The Gas City'- I do think they have met
their match in Wes, if it is gas that we are talking about- I was
able to convince the nice folks at the Travelodge to let us use
their facilities to get clean. I went and collected Wes from where
he was and low and behold, plenty of soap and a couple of razors
later, we emerged less dirty. Feeling remarkably better, although
somewhat unfamiliar with this whole clean thing, we were on our
way again. For a short period in the afternoon Wes actually had
the wind at his back, which was a very welcomed change. He plodded
along throughout the day as the Calgary distance signs began to
look better and better. As we both recall from our drive out to
the east, this section of the prairies was pretty dull and according
to the map there are very few communities in the area to break up
the doldrums. Perhaps this is why the day seemed to drag on towards
the end. Thankfully the end came and we drove down a farm road to
park for the night. A skunk scurried away close to where we were
planning to pull over and as we had no desire to get involved with
the little guy/girl we continued further. When we were at last getting
ready for bed, Wes removed his socks and all fear of the skunk or
any other smell in the universe disappeared. This was the second
day he had worn these socks in a row and let me just say that I
will do everything in my power to never, ever let him run out of
clean socks again. Ever!
Oct 21st,
2003
The westerly wind, our persistent companion of late, rattled us
around throughout the night as it pummeled poor Barb (our Suburban).
When we finally opened our bedroom door (aka tailgate) at 4AM, we
weren't really sure what month it was. The wind was Hawaii-warm
(like when you first step off the plane into the open-air airport
on Oahu) and it was already 21C. This helped to explain why we both
woke up in pools of sweat. I know that I have said it before, but
we are very thankful for the absurdly good weather we have been
enjoying. Scantily clad for this summer-like day, Wes was on the
move well before 5AM. The Northern Lights were dancing all along
the north horizon while the bright sliver of the moon and crisp
stars filled the rest of the sky. As the light of dawn overwhelmed
the darkness, it revealed the beautiful, rolling ranchland that
was all around us. Wes and I were both tempted to do some grazing
ourselves- it was just that inviting. However, a sign on one section
of fence warned to 'keep back and observe the buffalo from your
car'…we didn't see any, but we decided against grazing on their
turf. By mid-morning we moseyed across the provincial line and into
Alberta! This mental victory kept Wes going strong throughout the
28C heat of the day. He pushed to the east side of Medicine Hat
by late evening. In the hopes of bringing ourselves back to a socially
acceptable level of cleanliness, we tried, albeit unsuccessfully,
to cap this beautiful day off by wrangling ourselves a free hotel
stay. I guess fresher smelling days will have to wait…
Oct 20th,
2003
The map showed that we would be on a two-lane undivided highway
for most of today, but it turned out that crews were just completing
another two lanes to make it into a divided highway. Wes was flattered
that this new road had been built for his usage and accepted this
kind gesture graciously. For 39km, he had a freshly paved, two-lane
road all to himself (it isn't open to traffic yet) and I had a perfect
rollerblading surface to glide beside him. We were spurred on throughout
the day by numerous friendly and familiar honks and enthusiastic
waves from passing cars. As evening began settling in we came upon
yet another herd of cows and we tried, as we generally do, to get
their attention and maybe some sort of reaction by doing our best
cow calls at them. This large herd seemed agitated by us and then
they suddenly started stampeding. Apparently we had struck the right
note, or so we thought. Actually, two frisky horses had raced into
the herd and started really stirring things up (chasing after calves,
etc.). The horses stopped for a minute and stood side-by-side staring
at Wes and me. They looked like two slightly devious brothers and
were probably thinking something similar as we stood side-by-side
staring back at them. Quickly they galloped away through the scenic,
rolling pasture, content with the kafuffle they had caused. So too
did we canter away into the warm, windy night for a record smashing
70.6km on the day.
Oct 19th,
2003
After what was Wes' longest five day stretch yet, 318km, we had
no problem sleeping in until mid-morning on this rest day. We found
ourselves just west of the small community of Gull Lake and as it
was Sunday, we knew that very little would be open in the town.
So right away we went about entertaining ourselves. Three antelope
came surprisingly close to the car first thing in the morning which,
of course, led to a quick foot pursuit in which Wes was not the
victor. After breakfast, we headed straight towards one of the huge
wind mills perched on the other side of the valley. We were able
to walk right around a couple of them and ogle at their size. Even
standing next to them it was hard to believe that they are almost
30 stories high. This area is quite cool in that there are still
hundreds of oil rigs scattered in the fields of the valley, but
perched up on the hills are these 26 shiny new wind mills that hopefully
represent the clean future of energy generation. Later in the day
we were chatting with a young guy from Gull Lake and he gave us
a pretty scientific explanation of why the region (and the whole
of southern Saskatchewan for that matter) experiences such strong
winds. He offers, "It is quite simple, really. Alberta blows and
Manitoba sucks." Well, if you think about it that would certainly
explain the prevailing westerly.
Oct 18th,
2003
The warm glow of the moon was pleasantly accompanied by a very warm
wind this morning. Instead of doing our desperate crawl into the
front seats to turn on the car and the heat, as we have been doing
lately, this morning we casually strolled outside and stretched
before working our way to the front. Without having to wait for
the car to warm us up, we were able to quickly get ready and roll
up to the Swift Current Tim Horton's at 4:35AM. Wes happily filled
himself with an XL serving of one of society's gut-rotting drugs
of choice (I'm one to speak as I sit beside him stuffing myself
full of Timbits…). I think my aversion to coffee developed after
being yelled at by one-too-many post-coffee breath, high school
teachers. Anyways, high on sugar, caffeine, and a dash of self-righteousness
(Wes on the caffeine and me on that even nastier thing), we marched
westwards into the early morning darkness.
Very early on in the day we could see large towers in the distance
and suspected, correctly, that they were wind mills. So what, you
say. Our guess was that there would only be wind mills if there
was wind, and quite frankly, the wind was getting a little tiresome
after just two days of it. Although the wind didn't pick up until
late morning, our intelligent hypothesis (wind mills built in windy
places) was indeed correct. By lunch time, the wind was blowing
with a fury. On the menu today- pasta with a chicken cream sauce
and plenty of wind-blown dust and dirt. We even did a little experiment
involving water and the wind. Wes stood downwind across the road
from me and I poured water out of a jug upwind from him. Just as
I suspected, the pour sap got soaked! I keep doing my best to show
him that there is great humour to be found in the wind, but for
some reason, he just can't see it. You would think a sprinkle of
water would be welcomed on this particular October 18th, as the
mercury soared to a sizzling 28C, providing irrefutable evidence,
much to the chagrin of snow lovers like us, that global warming
is the hottest trend going.
Oct 17th,
2003
The wind that blew yesterday seemed like only a warm-up for what
was in store today for our intrepid foot-powered traveler. I can
honestly say that the dynamics of this trip would have changed if
we had been forced to deal with these 50+kph headwinds on a regular
basis, because - they put Wes into a right foul mood. I found his
irritability really quite amusing and that didn't help, as he surely
couldn't see anything funny about the wind or his mood. That is
of course, until he started to nearly get hit with the tumbleweed
that was coming at him on a regular basis, like a scene out of an
old western or a Roadrunner cartoon. He finally broke down and laughed
at the futility of both fighting the wind, and being upset by it.
Seeing how the tumbleweed was able to get him out of his funk, I
put a couple big ones in the trailer and am planning to hit him
with them the next time he is pissy to see if he snaps out of it.
Anyways, Wes still put in a solid 62km despite all the grumbling
and we finished just west of Swift Current- very little stands between
us and Alberta now! Yet another great sunset went down on this beautiful
20C day (Can you believe that, Oct. 17 and we were in shorts on
the Prairies…this place rules!!!!). Better yet is that it is supposed
to reach 23C tomorrow...woohoo!
Oct 16th,
2003
It is cold outside, it is cold inside, it is really early and the
alarm will not leave us alone. Somehow Wes' pilot light hasn't gone
out during the night and he is able to light the inner fire that
keeps pushing him onwards. I'm having trouble just rolling onto
my side because I am uncomfortable lying on my back. Wes goes through
his morning routine that involves taping all the pieces of his body
together for the day. When dawn breaks, we are in scenic rolling
hills and the golden hue of the rising sun is still as breath-taking
as the first time I can remember seeing a sunrise. Head-down and
head-strong, Wes really pushed hard this morning.
We were both amused throughout the day by the really wacky combinations
of trailers that people seem to tow in this area. A pick-up would
be towing a trailer that in turn would be towing another car. Another
pick-up would be towing a large, awkward piece of farm equipment
and then a boat off of that. Why make two trips when you can make
one I guess, but these loads look a little frightening sometimes.
The infamous Prairie wind really picked up in the afternoon and
blew with enough vigor to probably lift up Marilyn Monroe and her
dress. Wes walked with a sideways lean that would make 'Dorf' proud.
The migrating Canadian Geese seemed to be having their problems
as well, as their 'V' formations were literally being blown sideways
as they laboured above us. Wes and I think that we are now able
to identify male versus female flocks of geese as the females tend
to fly south while the males just don't seem to have a clue or be
willing to follow anyone else's lead. That's coming from a guy who
has done more than countless U-turns since this trip began.
Oct 15th,
2003
It has been 4 months to the day since Wes started his run and when
we emerged from our cocoons this morning we saw a celebration waiting
for us in the sky (there really weren't any other people up to enjoy
it so I feel that it was for our benefit). It was, of course, the
Northern Lights and they were sweeping in a captivating dance across
the early morning sky. Wes was certainly deserving of some spectacle
this morning as it was -7C out and his all important seat heater
wasn't in the mood to warm his rear over breakfast. He bundled up
appropriately and without any grumbling he was off into the cold.
We were quickly into Moose Jaw, just in time to stock up on fresh
Timbits. For some things I have a memory like an elephant and I
still remember vividly that the last time we got 20 Timbits the
score was something like Wes 14 to my 6. With that in mind, I struck
quickly as Wes was tending to his XL triple triple and probably
finished up even with him as he came on strong in the end when I
began to focus on driving.
The sunrise was amazing as all the contours of the morning clouds
were dramatically defined in vibrant colours across the sky. It
certainly looked like it was going to shape up to be a great day,
but we were forgetting the old saying "red at morn, sailors be warn".
For the second day in a row I left Wes for a fair chunk of the later
morning while I went and food shopped and ran around Moose Jaw.
I went into an IGA and came out 25 minutes later to see that the
sky was darkening, rain was beginning to fall, and to the west where
Wes was (look at that alliteration!!!), the sky was absolutely menacing.
I quickly drove in his direction as the rain turned into huge wet
snowflakes and the temperature dropped about 5 degrees. By the time
I caught up to him, the ground was white and he was too. This little
storm seemed to have a sense of humour about my bad timing as the
snow stopped falling right as I got to him and the temperature started
climbing again. The rest of the day was uneventful, as large puffy
white clouds drifted around us peacefully. The landscape began to
change as the day wore on and scenic rolling hills soon surrounded
us with hay and straw bails filling the fields. Wes finished the
day 65km from where he began and his quiet resolve is becoming more
impressive to me daily.
Oct 14th,
2003
Wes was surprisingly functional this morning as he got right to
work drowning his misery over our abbreviated sleep and the sub-zero
temperatures outside with bulk quantities of coffee. I went about
it my own way and hung out in a fog for the majority of the day.
I did some running around in the Queen's City (Regina) in the morning
while Wes just plodded along through the cold towards Moose Jaw.
A problem that has been nagging us throughout the Prairies was heightened
today due to the high traffic on the road between Regina and Moose
Jaw. You see, with very few trees, no bushes, and certainly no trace
of a hill to hide behind, trying to take an uninterrupted pee in
the Prairies is all but impossible. Even if you make a trek away
from the highway, you still look like a guy peeing in a field a
small trek from the highway. To make matters worse, the wind seemed
to be blowing in the wrong direction regardless of which way we
were facing. We just about gave up, but realized that doesn't work
too well either. As the lights of Moose Jaw came up in front of
us and the mercury started really dropping we were eager to cast
the shadow of our eyelids on this long, and as described above,
frustrating day.
Oct 13th,
2003
It is Thanksgiving and fittingly, we got to spend it in Canada's
harvest-land. Wes and I lazily slept off the indecent amount of
food that we had consumed last night and woke up to a warm and sunny
Prairie day. After poking around in the morning, we went with mom
and Reg to explore the farm. We frolicked in the huge, golden rounds
of straw and hay like we were little kids (or just foolish city-slickers).
After taking turns rolling the bails over one another, we hopped
onto the ATV and roared through the fields chasing after the countless
gophers strolling about -no one got hurt so don't call PETA on us
please. We then moved down to the valley and mingled with the curious
and verbose cows. Ah yes, what a fun way to spend a rest day. There
really is something refreshing and grounding about spending some
(if only a little) time on a farm. Local farmers must roll their
eyes when they see these types of shenanigans. My guess is that
we city-folk look equally as puzzled and amused with the farm environment
as Crocodile Dundee was with the bidet in a New York City hotel
bathroom. Spending the holiday with family (a whole lot of newly
acquired family at that) and friends was really a nice treat for
the two of us. It gave us a boost and made us feel closer to home
that is for sure.
Unfortunately we had to get a move on before we got too comfortable
in this setting. So we headed from eastern Saskatchewan back west
towards Regina where we had left off the day before. We made a pit
stop in Indian Head along the way with some more newly-acquired
family. We enjoyed a little visit and discovered that they had been
at work on our behalf before we arrived. It seems that the concept
of us sleeping in our car on a cold prairie night was enough for
them to have already taken it upon themselves to have arranged a
free hotel room for us in Regina for the night! How cool is that?!!
Thanks Dave…I'll see you at Red Mountain (thanks too, Diana, for
the super tasty cinnamon buns -we opted to eat them instead of throwing
them ;-). When we rolled up to the Super 8 Motel at 12:40AM we both
knew that the coffee maker in the room would be the only way to
get Wes going 4 hours later.
Oct 12th,
2003
It was chilly this morning, but we were ready. Wes and I headed
off for what was to be our last jaunt together (at least on this
leg of his journey). Thankfully there was no wind.
Today is the day that the CanadaRun team-of-three becomes a twosome
again. As night turned to a morning glow, Wes and I shared our thoughts,
the beauty of the surroundings, and the togetherness created by
the solitude. Together we watched for McDonald's 'Fries Surprises'
containers littered beside the road (it's amazing how many have
not been checked for a prize). As lunch grew near, Dano and I drove
off towards the Regina Airport.
What can I say…Wes and Dano; thanks for letting me be a part of
your adventure. The reality and the magnitude of the task that you
have undertaken sure goes to one's very heart. It has been a slice.
You've come a long way together and I sense it has prepared you
well for the mountains and the weather that will test you in the
weeks to come. Good luck, good health, good spirits and be safe
out there……LOVE YOU
Oct 11th,
2003
The day started with a bright moon and a surprisingly warm feeling
4 C. The highway was absolutely deserted. It must have been the
moonlight, Wes was flying.
Throughout the day we were treated to an armada of cumulus clouds
streaking across the sky. The unfortunate downside was that with
the wind-chill, we were having to contend with -5C to -10C conditions.
The wind was in our face all day. Dano and I took to walking just
in front of Wes to block the wind. He was slip-streaming us and
said he could feel the difference in effort on his part.
We had a great lunch at the Indian Head Coffee Shop and Bakery.
After lunch we headed back to the road speculating as to when we
would meet up with two very special people. Minutes before 2pm,
almost exactly when we guessed they would arrive, Wes and I saw
a red pick-up stop beside Barb at a pullout about 750m ahead. Within
minutes Dee (Wes' mom) and Reg joined us out on the road. It was
a heartfelt greeting and reunion for all. The next hour was spent
chatting, telling jokes and discussing Wes' safety.
Dee and Reg headed off to a family gathering. The boys would be
returning to Rocanville to a Thanksgiving feast at Reg's sister's
farm tomorrow and a day of R&R.
We stopped just west of McLean, 38km from Regina.
Oct 10th,
2003
I never knew that it could be so warm in early Oct. in Saskatchewan
at 4 AM. We were on the road by 5AM, but not before insuring that
Dano was awake and aware we were off. There was no moon to bathe
the fields in the soft yellow glow that we had become so use to.
5:30, 6:00, 6:30…hot tea sure would be nice. "Are you hungry Wes,
I sure am?" "Yes, so am I. WHERE is Dano?"…6:35, 6:40AM…beep, beep
as he drives by with a sleepy grin and does a power slide at the
next turnabout ( Tasha hates power slides). 9.7km, the longest first
walk yet, a very productive start to the day. The rest of the day
was quite un-eventful. Wes is getting stronger every day, fewer
aches and pains. Total distance traveled today...62.7km.
Oct 9th, 2003
This morning began at an hour that would make most people shudder…4:00am.
We gained an hour when we crossed into Saskatchewan yesterday and
decided to keep on our previous schedule to maximize the light of
the day. Remarkably, it wasn't that painful, perhaps because we
were in bed at just after 8:00 the night before. We are in big sky
country or as they say here 'land of living skies' and we were treated
to dancing clouds for much of the day, which helped to distract
us from the flat horizon. This set up an amazing sunset that went
through countless stages of jaw-dropping goodness while the very
big moon rose seemingly right on cue behind us, just after the sun
was down. Thanks to the early start, we finished a full day just
after darkness and retired to our luxurious barracks.
Oct 8th, 2003
Well, as promised, we made a grand entrance into Saskatchewan today.
Our brief sojourn through Manitoba worked out better than we could
have hoped for, especially considering that it is October (the Prairies
do have a reputation for not so cozy weather we hear). Last night
the wind was so balmy that it was comical. A quick storm rolled
through and the two minute burst of wind and rain seemed entirely
tropical. Daytime highs have climbed consistently towards 30 C and
we were treated to several days in a row without seeing a single
cloud. We have passed countless fields of gold, seen breathtaking
colours in the turning trees, and watched sunrises and sunsets that
seem to constantly out-perform those from the day before. Picturesque
valleys (little ones, yes) appear out of nowhere on the flat looking
landscape and give subtle, yet rich texture to the endless sea of
fields. Big white-tailed deer (they look like white-rump deer to
me) gather in numbers in the valleys and bounce quickly across the
fields at the sight of us. Needless to say, our crossing of Manitoba
has been sweet and refreshingly short when compared to the never-ending-abyss
that was Ontario. So even though the 'welcome' centre for Saskatchewan
was boarded up tightly with the parking lot gates snarled shut for
the season, we welcomed ourselves and gaily pranced one step closer
to the west.
Oct 7th, 2003
Well, after a ten day 'sabbatical' in sunny Vancouver for the end
of September and a weeks worth of writers block, I (Dano) have emerged
from my new lodgings in the trailer (formerly a sheep trailer if
you can recall) to join Wes again and our dad. Although the unseasonably
hot weather we are enjoying is more than we could ask for, we have
even better news! We (The Canada Run Association) are now officially
a registered charity!!! We are thrilled about this as it has been
a long time coming. So if you have been wondering just how you are
going to rack up some tax credits this year, go to our donations
page and give generously.
The Canada Run
Association guarantees 100% satisfaction and eternal happiness to
all donors.
(*guarantee on satisfaction and happiness expires 31/12/2002, sorry no rain
checks).
Honestly, we will
do our best to make sure you feel warm and fuzzy inside for any contribution
you may make. We are very grateful to have support from people around
us and are excited that this charity designation will make it easier
for people and businesses to support us. We have now shifted into
overdrive and the rest of our journey is certainly going to be entertaining
and very full. Stay tuned…tomorrow we will be in Saskatchewan.
Oct 6th, 2003
Happy Birthday Michael, from the three of us.
It's shaping up to be another spectacular day. The projected high
is 27 C…wow! The terrain is low rolling hills (very low mind you)
with fields of cut wheat and stands of deciduous trees that are just
starting to turn colours, amazing colours. It's beautiful scenery,
for sure….and the sunrise……unbelievable. Dano got to sleep-in today.
When he caught up with us we were informed that we had been sleeping
right next to a pasture with a herd of horses. From Dano's description
it appears that they were also enjoying the sunrise.
We had a scary incident on the first leg out this morning. Wes and
I are both of the firm conviction that some &*%$ took a deliberate
run at us. We both dove for the ditch. The idiot could have easily
lost control dropping unto the soft gravel shoulder. Sure was funny…hey!
Look at those guys dive into the ditch, what fun….
Lunch was on a river terrace overlooking the Dakota Nation Village
of Sioux Valley. The Assiniboine River meandered lazily through the
valley on this unusually hot fall day. Hmm, I wonder how nice it looks
and feels in say, mid-February.
Oct 5th, 2003
Another gorgeous day, another 60km. Last week the temperatures were
10 C below normal, now they are 10 C above normal. We certainly know
which we prefer. In the late afternoon we glided past Brandon, leaving
most of Manitoba's population clearly behind us. At around 10pm we
were bedding down next to a peaceful pasture when we had a visit from
the local highway patrol wondering what we were up to. After a quick
visit he returned to the highway to pluck off more unsuspecting speeders.
Oct 4th, 2003
This is the prairies at their best. Not a cloud in the sky and it's
in the mid-20's. Break out the sun screen. Dano and I are taking turns
walking with Wes- although when the road surface allows, Dano seems
to enjoy wearing skin-coloured leotards, no top, and rollerblades
to break up the walking doldrums. I live in fear that some trucker
is going to lose control of his rig at the sight of this bare-looking
figure gliding down the road. Anyways, tomorrow should see us in Brandon.
Saskatchewan, here we come!
Sept 30th and
on…, 2003
Today was one long march into Winnipeg…well at least to the east Perimeter
Road. At that point Wes climbed aboard and we drove to my friend's,
Jan Laidlaw and Bob Tinker, home in the Worseley District not far
from the city centre. We called ahead and the Chinese food arrived
right on queue. This was also the day we were to become a three some.
Dano arrived at 10:00pm laden with winter clothing, his, Wes and mine.
The plan was for Wes to walk the 30km through the city on the 30th,
but his newest ailment (a nasty shin splint on his left leg) dictated
that a day of rest was in order. The three of us spent the day shopping
(at the MEC, Princess Auto, Canadian Tire, etc. ).
Thursday, Oct.2 Dano slept in while I drove Wes out the East Perimeter
Rd. to start his trek across the city. This he did plus another 30km
to Elie, west of the city. Dano and I went from store to store trying
to get more donations. I have to say that Safeway Stores have been
GREAT supporters. We also got a donation from Princess Auto. Thanks
for the assistance. We returned to Jan's for a third evening.
Friday, Oct.3 saw Wes and Dano head out on their own. I'd brought
my bike to do some riding and this day looked like the perfect day
to do a nice 100km spin through the country side. They had a five
hour, 45 km head start on me, so I thought I'd catch them by mid afternoon.
It was not to be so. Thirty to fifty kph headwinds turned a dead flat
route into torture. I caught up to them at 5-ish only because Wes
was having a tough day and was about two hours behind schedule. It
was a long day in the end as Wes and Dano walked until after 10pm.
Sept 29th, 2003
A balmy 4 C greets us this morning along with a string of announcements
from an unseen industrial yard. What an interesting day weather wise….wind,
sun, rain, HAIL, snow. We have definitely left the rocky terrain of
the Canadian Shield and are on the 'Prairies'. The land is flat, the
trees are almost all deciduous and there are FARMS. As I write this
we are experiencing a little culture shock. This is very clearly Mennonite
country. Interesting. Hmm…is that dog chasing Wes or just being friendly?
Friendly, I think. This should be an interesting stretch. We have
turned onto Hwy # 15 which is as straight as an arrow for 75km, all
the way to Winnipeg.
Sept 28th, 2003
On the road again. The rest day (yesterday) in Kenora saw Wes and
I go our separate ways. He parked himself in the library posting the
updates while I did the shopping, mostly medications for his feet.
Today started a surprisingly warm feeling 2 C. Wes was walking by
5:50AM. 30km later we crossed into MANITOBA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wes kissed the ground and the 'Welcome to Manitoba' sign, but not
before bidding good-bye to Ontario with several questionable and heartfelt
gestures (Note: These were captured on film and might be posted for
general viewing). At this point he also retired his well worn "Soles'
(used all the way from Halifax and they still looked in pretty darn
good shape….better than his feet, that's for sure. Three kilometers
inside Manitoba we turned north onto Hwy # 44, the old Trans Canada
Route. Although this route is 5 km further to Winnipeg there should
be considerably less traffic and VERY FEW TRUCKS.
I can happily say we didn't see a single truck the rest of the day;
but the reason why became apparent very quickly. Although the posted
speed limit was 90kph we both concluded that to drive the road that
fast would be suicidal. Talk about rough. At any speed over 40kph
the trailer went wild. And, talk about dark……..! As night settled
in I put Barb in low gear, with my window down and just idled alongside
Wes. In two hours, moving along side by side, I had to move over for
a car just once. We covered 66km. Wes thinks this is a record for
the trip.
P.S. A message for Dano. Wes is really enjoying his hot tea every
couple of hours. Be prepared.
Sept 26th, 2003
It's Sept. 26th, we think; eight days since Wes (sans Dano) picked
me up at the Thunder Bay Airport on the 18th. With any luck we will
be able to post these progress updates tomorrow in Kenora. Since this
odyssey started, if you are like me, you have been frustrated by the
infrequency of the updates. Now that I'm with Wes, I can assure you
that the frustration is equally present on our end. It's really tough
to find sites to download the updates; furthermore, we can go days
without cell phone coverage or access to a pay phone.
The rain that fell throughout the night began to taper off as we piled
on the layers this morning. Nonetheless, it is still very damp. It
hurt me to watch Wes as he started out today. He has pulled something
at the back of his left knee. He is no longer limping; he's now hobbling
like an arthritic hobbit (I started/finished book on my first day
out). Thankfully, tomorrow is a rest day that we will be spending
in Kenora.
Wes has now been on the road approximately three and a half months.
Weather-wise, the past week has been the toughest. We expect that
there may be short periods in the weeks to come where it won't be
so bad, but for the most part, the days are only going to get colder
and darker.
If this week has taught me anything, it is how focused, disciplined,
and just bloody determined Wes has had to be to get this far, and
he is not finished yet. As I've heard him say repeatedly, "I would
not have started, if I didn't plan to finish." He is my son (which
is wonderful) and after being with him this past week, I know that
this is a special young man. I remember a teacher of Wes' saying,
"he doesn't walk to the beat of a different drummer, he's in the woods
building the drums!" Don't stop, Wes. Love you Guy!
Sept 25th, 2003
5am again, and it is COLD!!!!!!!!! Some of the toes on Wes' right
foot look like they are about to rot off. It's a toss up which hurts
more, his knee or foot. An upside is that the road now has a very
wide paved shoulder which sure is safer and easier on the ankles.
For the first time since I arrived Wes is complaining about how he
feels. He has to really be hurting. Dinner tonight was cheese and
pepperoni on crackers with cucumber slices. We parked for the night
9 km from our stop point (and that was only after some very serious
searching). I forgot to mention that I've being consolidating boxes
and containers. I can stretch out at night!!!!!!
Wes and I have a good laugh about time….actually it is about time;
as in, "what day is it, what's the date?' We operate in hours and
kilometers. The day or date is only important in as much as it helps
you.
Sept 24th, 2003
And we thought the 19th was a day from hell…it was nothing compared
to what Wes had to deal with today. The winds howled out of the north
so strongly Wes walked with a pronounced lean to stay upright as he
moved forward. The rain blasted him in solid sheets. The temperature
dropped all day…9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1…wonderful it's snowing…huge, wet,
sticky flakes. Every pair of socks, every pair of shoes, and all the
rain gear was soaked. Wes almost had to pry me out of the car I was
so stiff and sore (from lack of movement). The wetness has really
caused havoc on Wes' feet. We employed the same plastic bag trick
as in previous days; however, the water still managed to seep through
causing blistering and immense pain.
We parked for the night in a roadside rest area next to the sign that
read 'No camping or parking between the hours of 9pm and 6am'...whatever.
We were expecting a noisy night since the train tracks were no more
than 20 meters from us. I put in the earplugs. Unbelievably, there
were no more trains that night, or so Wes said.
Sept 23rd, 2003
I suspect that most of us who have been following Wes' progress across
the country on the web could be called 'virtual' travelers. Few of
us have likely experienced the joys and trials of long distance travel
using only muscle power. As we sit at our computers reading the progress
reports we imagine what it must be like walking and running 50-60km/day,
day after day. It obviously has to be tough. As I sit in Barb, watching
Wes limp off into the distance, I can safely say it is tough. However,
the reality is much more complex and demanding. Here is my best explanation
of the reality…...
After three months on the road, the journey has passed by the long
hot days of summer, the refreshing swims, the shorts and T-shirts,
the beautiful vistas of the St. Lawrence River valley and the beaches
of Lake Superior. This is now "STPM" country - sky, trees, pavement,
and marsh; with little vertical relieve. It's not flat, but darn close.
It's probably fair to say that this stretch of the Trans Canada Highway
is not so much to be enjoyed (no matter what your mode of transportation)
as to be endured.
It's usually dark when our nightly hunt for a camping spot starts.
We'll settle for a snowplow turn-about aside the highway, and it's
straight to bed. This involves moving whatever is piled on our air-mattress
to the front seats, then climbing through the rear window. Closing
it behind us, we struggle to undress and get into our sleeping bags.
The space is cramped, therefore ensuring that one can barely sit up
let alone bend a leg to remove socks or other articles of clothing.
Wes is usually out like a light. Meanwhile, I struggle to stretch
my legs since our cooler and food boxes are located at my feet. All
night long trucks roar by shattering the silence with their engine
brakes. They are occasionally outdone by the sound of the freight
trains since the CP mainline rarely ventures far from the roadside.
After three months of such activities, Wes is rather accustom to this
environment; however, I am still adjusting.
Sept 21st, 2003
Capitalizing on our day off, and a free motel room, we slept in to
9am. After breakfast we went in search of a laundromat. Closed. The
motel owners kindly let us do our laundry in their commercial machines.
Meanwhile, Wes worked tirelessly on the computer to build new photo
galleries for the website (hopefully they will be posted by the time
this goes up). As night fell, we drove back to the stopping point
we marked on the 20th. We found an access road to the old highway,
and after turning around Barb and Tasha (the trailer), we had dinner
and bedded down for the night.
Sept 20th, 2003
5 am. It is cold. Temp = 0 C. Same breakfast routine as usual, minus
the bananas. An OK day; cloudy, sunny breaks, showers….Wes is hurting.
Tomorrow is a rest day. Upsala here we come.
Before leaving home it was decided that I'd treat Wes to a motel room
on his rest days. So we stopped at the 'Majestic' Motel mid-day, and
after a short discussion with the owner, we have a complimentary room
for the night (thanks folks). Before heading off to the pub, we were
warned that the town is crawling with bears. Two had just been seen
on the street between the motel and the pub. Wonderful…the pub was
rather quiet, but within a few minutes of sitting down we were asked
if we were with CanadaRun. Answering, yes, we were invited to sit
with two bow hunters from Peterborough (the moose season opened today).
Glen, a biomechanical engineer who manages a Sports Medicine Centre,
was very interested in Wes' reasons for undertaking such a monumental
task. They had a long thoughtful discussion over some pizza and beer
before calling it a night.
Upon our arrival back at the motel we discovered that the earlier
warning of bears was well-warranted. A LARGE black bear sprung out
from the parking lot behind the motel. In hot pursuit was a group
of local teens. Clearly, the town of Upsala is lacking entertaining
activities and facilities for youth on Saturday nights. Twenty-two
bear were shot in Upsala last year, I wonder how many teen were mauled
and eaten.
Sept 19th, 2003
The alarm is set for 5AM. It's VERY dark and we do our best not to
smack one another as we get dressed in the cramped quarters. It's
not too cold. Breakfast is a large bowl of cereal and a banana. Then
we drive to the starting point, a spray-paint mark on the pavement.
Would you believe they have been using BLACK paint on pavement! I
make a mental note to buy some red, orange, or yellow paint at the
next hardware store I see.
Wes dawns a reflective vest , a red flashing light attached somewhere
on his back and a flashing amber light on his front. I think it was
a good idea that I brought all these things with me. Without it, if
he takes three steps into the darkness he vanishes. Wes has a little
ritual whereby he touches the object or point where he finished off
the night before, then he is off. It's 5:50AM! My first day out with
Wes, by his own assessment, was the VERY worst weather he's had to
date. There is nothing one can do about the weather but cope with
it as best as possible. This day grew into a day from hell. The key
is stay warm, and if possible, dry.
He started the day wearing my Gore-Tex cycling jacket and pants. He
quickly changed to his winter parka with its full hood. It was like
a stormy day on the west coast (Tofino style). The wind was in Wes'
face all day and the rain was coming at him horizontally. Then there
were the trucks. When the roads are dry you can see them coming easily,
often in convoys of 5 or 6 at a time. Wes side-steps towards the ditch
at the edge of the shoulder to allow as much space as possible between
them. The wind blast can still hit hard enough to throw one off stride.
However, in the wind and rain Wes stops and turns his back to the
oncoming monsters as the blast of wind and water is like being sandblasted.
As the day progressed wet shoes and socks were changed, many times.
To keep his feet dry we made use of our extra grocery bags in combination
with two pairs of socks. It worked, somewhat.
Every 6 kilometers or so Wes stopped for a short rest and refreshment
break. Lunch is the major meal of the day. Usually he takes a power
nap after lunch, but with the shorter days, such a respite has become
a rarity. With good planning dinner is waiting for him at a spot around
6-6:30pm. NO CARBS allowed before bed (mainly protein), now that makes
thing tough. After dinner (or the evening snack) he again dawns all
the reflective clothing and lights while heading out into the descending
darkness. Wet to the bone, by 8-8:30pm he has covered 60+km. Without
access to my raingear (Wes is using it all) I've been a prisoner to
the confines of the car all day. I'm stiff from the inactivity. We
camp in a log loading yard. It's clearing up. It could be cold tonight.
The sleeping preparations went better tonight. Practice is a necessity!
Sept 18th, 2003
Before I really get into this, let me introduce myself. My name is
Gary Baker, Wes' dad. The plan is to travel with Wes to the end of
the month while Dano returns to Vancouver onboard 'Hanna' ,the motorcycle,
for some R&R and to spend a few days with Kelly. We hear that he arrived
home safely, but the weather was punishing. Hey, Dano, "was your average
speed across the prairies honestly that fast?" Scary! He plans to
fly back to Winnipeg on Sept. 30th, where we will meet up with him,
we hope. The three of us will then travel together towards Regina.
Then, I'll fly back to the coast around the 8th of Oct.
My arrival in Thunder Bay was marked by summer-like conditions, unlike
my first stop in Calgary where it had recently snowed, or in Winnipeg
where the airport ground crews were bundled in their winter parkas
(a glimpse of the future for Wes no doubt). We had no sooner climbed
into 'Barb', as the Suburban is affectionate called, when Wes pulled
out the 'to-do list' for the day. For four hours we roared around
T-Bay stopping at Canadian Tire, Wal-Mart, the public library, and
a local bike store (actually two, at my request). The local Canadian
Tire store donated a new battery for Barb and greased the trailer
wheel bearings, while Safeway donated a $25 food voucher (thanks folks).
Meanwhile, I had purchased another week's cache of food and tried
to fill Barb's gas tank (the pump limited the flow at $100, a relief
for me since the tank was still far from full). Dano and Wes' efforts
prior to my arrival had also yielded a story in the local paper, a
plug on CBC radio and a segment on the TBTV evening news. It was a
very productive day. In the wake of our whirlwind tour of T-Bay, we
indulged ourselves at a local steakhouse before driving off into the
darkness in search of a campsite near to the next day's start point.
Sept 17th, 2003
With a fresh pack of Timbits and the knowledge that we were on the
western half of the country, we were off in a flash this morning.
I am generally not used to Wes being very alert at the start of the
day, but with his extra large coffee in hand he set a dangerous Timbit
consumption pace and had no problem eating considerably more than
his share. With all bitterness behind us (or me), we started in the
darkness in search of the prairies. Turning around at one point I
noticed that the morning sky was ablaze in all shades of red. We found
it amusing that we almost didn't notice this bold display, but it
was behind us in the east and we aren't looking back baby. Well, we
actually did backtrack as we had some appointments with the Thunder
Bay media mid-morning. With that finished we were on the road again,
quickly leaving Thunder Bay and its frustrating cellular network behind.
As the darkness enveloped Wes, he was guided by the North Star on
a particularly long stretch of highway heading straight towards it.
I joined him in the darkness for the last section. Mars was shining
so brightly that it had a hue around it and we continued quietly as
the depths of the darkness penetrated us in a curiously unnerving
kind of way.
Sept 16th, 2003
It has become second nature for us to ignore both the alarm clock
and the previous night's pep-talk about getting up earlier. When we
oozed out of bed this morning we both had some odd muscle aches that
were new to us. Quickly we remembered that we had spent a few hours
swimming and goofing around at the Canada Games Complex yesterday
in Thunder Bay. We were also reminded that we spent so much time there
that we weren't able to do the laundry that we desperately needed
to do. So Wes went fishing through the dirty clothes bin to find socks
for the day, his eyes bugged out as he tried to fight off the unpleasant
smells lurking in the Tupperware container. It really is all glamour
on the road with the Canada Run Team (right Kelly?!!). We were both
in great moods as the day quickly rolled by us while having some fun
with some of the outfits that we bought at a Value Village. As the
evening colours began to transform the sky, Wes made his way to The
Terry Fox Site. This is probably the most anticipated stop for anyone
on a cross Canada journey and it is a proud place for all Canadians.
We ate some dinner and savoured the peaceful spot before Wes was on
his way again. As darkness settled in around us, we were just west
of Thunder Bay with another 60+km in the rearview.
Sept 15th, 2003
We woke up to a stunning sunrise over the waters of Lake Superior
and headed into Thunder Bay. We gorged ourselves on an unhealthy amount
of food at the 'internationally renowned' Hoito Restaurant and went
heavily onwards into our day. We are spending our usual amount of
time at the library and then it is off to stock up on more basics.
Wes has recorded books on tape by both Bill Gates and Stephen Hawking
so I am expecting the level of our conversations to take an intellectual
upswing in the near future. Tonight we will backtrack to where we
left off and then tomorrow we will push through to just west of Thunder
Bay and clearly past the halfway point of our journey.
Sept 14th, 2003
The plan for today was similar to most days, pound some more asphalt
with our sights set on the west. There was a difference however, as
we knew that today we were not alone on the roads. Thousands of people
world-wide were showing their support for Terry Fox and the awesome
legacy of his courage and amazing spirit. We reflected on this somewhat
uniquely as we spent more than 50km of the day on the 'Terry Fox Courage
Highway'. This 100km section of the Trans Canada, north of Thunder
Bay, was the final leg of Terry's 'Marathon of Hope' and honours his
memory and his journey. Our day was appropriately low-key, allowing
us ample time to consider the things that really matter. It seems
that a compromise in health often gives clarity as to what is important
in life. It is reassuring to see people rally so passionately around
the memory of a young man that did so much under such difficult circumstances.
We had a surprise midday meeting with one of Wes' UVic friends who
was on his way to Montreal. Dan had crammed his life into a Uhaul
truck for the move and had more troubles turning his rig around than
spotting us. It was a cool chance encounter that made the west feel
a little closer. Wes pushed onwards until 10:30 in order to cover
the distance for the day. It was an easy night to enjoy as the stars
were shining brightly around us and the moon was casting a silver
shadow over the ghostly clouds. With over 300km covered in the past
five days we drove towards Thunder Bay for our rest day tomorrow.
We parked for the night just north of the city at the Terry Fox Monument
which seemed like an appropriate place to end the day.
Sept 13th, 2003
The fog was particularly lazy today and chose not to lift until early
in the afternoon. Although Wes has become quite accustomed to the
trucks flying by and the drivers generally don't seem bothered by
him, I think that they were both on edge as they each remained cloaked
in the fog until the last moment. The fog did eventually lift and
when it did it revealed a change in the landscape. The hills in the
area around Nipigon (and beyond to Thunder Bay) look a muffin bake
tray held upside-down. They have steep cliffs on all sides and a flat
plateau on top. It made for a nice change from the rolling tree-lined
landscape we have seen a whole lot of lately. The rest of the day
cruised by without much excitement. Wes busied himself by counting
the license plates of the passing cars, as there is an amazing cross
section on this section of road, representing much of Canada and the
U.S. Meanwhile, I got to work on dinner and broke the mold from tuna
and went with very tasty cheese and pepperoni omelets (lunch is when
I shine). With our bellies moderately filled, we set off for an evening
stroll; Victoria now lay another 62.3km closer.
Sept 12th, 2003
We have been enjoying a chorus of encouragement over the past few
days. We suspect that a lot of people have passed by us several times
on what is the only road that goes through this region. We also suspect
that it might just be the good nature of the Northern Ontario residents.
My theory is that this area is actually just at the same level as
the rest of Canada (close to the 49th parallel that is) and can relate
easier than perhaps those in more southern regions. Whatever the case,
it has been comforting to feel as though people are keeping their
eye on us.
Perhaps in an attempt to liven up the afternoon, the wind picked up
and chose to blow hard in every direction. It left Wes feeling as
though he had been bullied and left me yearning for a windsurfer.
It also made it chillier when it came time to get clean as we had
promised ourselves we would today. We came up to a nice lake that
we had seen on the drive out three months ago and after some serious
scrubbing we both looked a lot whiter as our dirt tans washed away.
The lashing we suffered as the wind streaked across the water left
us both deeply chilled. We crammed into the Suburban and cranked the
heat as we both admired our newfound cleanliness. A few pounds lighter
and smelling sweetly (or maybe just less badly), Wes was off again
into the stormy looking evening. Preparing our spinach on the tailgate
later in the rain, we were joined by a charismatic O.P.P officer that
we had befriended the night before. We learned that after he left
us last night he went to an incident in which a moose had T-boned
a truck with newlyweds inside. The moose smashed the passenger window
in what sounded like a rude attempt to sit in the poor ladies lap.
The Ontario road signs that show a picture of a charging moose certainly
aren't for show as they warn you not only that moose are in the area
but also that these bad boys will take a run at you.
Sept 11th, 2003
The Robin's Donut shop in Terrace Bay is certainly the place to be
in the morning. That being said, it's really more the place for locals
to be in the morning. As Wes and I strolled in at around 7am we waded
through the smoke to discover that everyone in the place had turned
to scrutinize these two certainly-not-from-here, chipper young lads
(I was just in a good mood and Wes was getting some coffee). It was
all very harmless, but we did stand out like the Pope at a rave. Cranked
up on coffee and sugar, we were off. After our first leg in the morning
we got back to the car to find some bottled water waiting for us.
We had met a nice man named Joe about three weeks earlier, east of
North Bay. He worked in this area on the railway and was looking out
for us. He had come across us last night and very thoughtfully brought
us some steaming hot soup. His gestures meant a lot to us and reminded
us of how loudly actions speak. Thanks Joe.
Our next encounter was with a local black bear. We exchanged pleasantries
as he/she grazed just across the highway. It was comforting for me
to know that Wes was certainly a better candidate for natural selection.
I was on rollerblades at the top of a long hill and Wes was limping
along carefully as downhill doesn't agree with him. Wes however, is
getting tough and stringy, not to mention his questionable diet, so
I was confident that he would make for bad eating for this friendly
looking bear. So on we marched, and rolled into the darkness of another
60+km day.
Sept 10th, 2003
It was back to the grind today after a day off or 'rest day'. I don't
know how restful these breaks really are and so I am hoping that one
of these days our rest day will be spent at a spa for some real R
and R. However, Wes appeared somewhat rejuvenated today and put in
his longest effort yet, 63.3km, which is exactly 1.5 marathons. Early
on in the day another wolf showed up as we were making our way through
a provincial park. I was looking down at the time so by the time Wes
got me to look up it was halfway into the bushes. So Wes has seen
two wolves in as many days on the road and I have now seen a wolf's
butt. This is not just wolf territory, but it is very much moose country
and we have seen the unfortunate results of a number of moose encounters
along the highway. As a number of crash scenes suggest, these encounters
do not end well for the moose or the vehicle that is involved.
We pushed on throughout the day, heading for the 2600km mark at Marathon
as well as the shoreline of Lake Superior yet again. We are discovering
that this is also pulp country and wood-chip trucks are everywhere.
We have both become addicted to the sweet, fresh smell of wood as
these trucks barrel passed us and leave a trail of their pleasant
aroma. However, the cruel joke seems to be that there are almost as
many cattle trucks going by us, leaving a much less pleasant smell.
As they pass, it is like being hit by a wall of farm (cattle, urine,
hay, all mixed together). And inevitably the chip trucks pass first
and then the cattle trucks, so we are left to chew on the foul air.
As the evening rolled in we stopped for our usual roadside gourmet.
I was lured across the highway as I could hear some dirt-bikes playing
in the woods just across from where we had stopped. The highlight
of my day came shortly afterwards as I got to rip around on a crazy
fast ATV while two young boys flew through the air all around me on
their dirt-bikes. That was very fun. We ended the day in the darkness,
having passed through moose, pulp and gold country.
Sept 9th, 2003
After a long five days and 275km of walking, Wes deserved a break.
Last night we finished about 27km west of White River, but we planned
to head back into the small community for our rest day. On the way
back into town we had to get ourselves out of a bit of a jam after
running out of gas on the highway. Collectively, Wes and I decided
that this was the third dumb thing that I have done on this trip,
which, may be a little generous (the other two involve me hurting
Wes and his bad knee). Of course this was all most certainly avoidable,
especially since we had just been stopped at a gas station about 700
meters earlier! I had decided not to get gas as I didn't really get
on with the owner (I sure showed him…). So now we were on the side
of the road with nothing around, except…a gas station a very short
drive around the corner. So after a botched attempt to siphon gas
out of the motorbike to put in the truck, we unloaded the bike from
the trailer and I rode it back to the station to get a jerry can.
I left Wes with the Suburban (Barb is her name), and came back again
with a small can of gas which would enable us to get Barb back to
the nearby station. When we tried to start Barb, the battery was dead,
as we had left all the lights on throughout this process. So we pulled
out our 'Jump It', a portable power source/car battery booster that
we recently picked up, and tried to jump the car. Unfortunately we
had been running the cooler off of the 'Jump It' so it didn't have
the juice to make anything happen. Again we employed the motorbike
to solve our woes and this time succeeding, we headed back again to
the gas station, tail between our legs. So the net result of me neglecting
to use anything resembling a brain, was that we ended up back at the
original station filling up the motorbike, a jerry can (which I had
to buy), and 'Barb'. How our blunders can turn into multi-volume comedy
of errors is amazing, even to the two of us. So it goes without saying
that this whole little episode took some of the wind and enthusiasm
out of the early part of our day.
The rest of our day was less comically painful. We went back to the
info centre and visited with the very pleasant woman that worked there,
Judy, who we had met on our way through the day before. She was very
personable and was not only willing to put up with us being around,
but seemed entertained by us. We learned that the bear that ended
up inspiring Winnie-the-Pooh had initially been bought from a trapper
in White River in 1914. The bear's new owner was from Winnipeg, so
it got the name Winnie. Winnie ended up in the London Zoo for safe-keeping
when the owner was involved in the First World War and was eventually
left in the zoo permanently (I guess London had more to offer than
Winnipeg for bears…). A Londoner and his son, Christopher, regularly
visited Winnie and eventually Winnie-the-Pooh was born. Anyways, this
update was intended to be quick, but as you can see from above sometimes
I'm just not so quick.
Sept 8th, 2003
Wes had some extra motivation this morning and it wasn't a nearby
Tim Horton's. Very early on, a nice woman stopped to warn him that
a large wolf was on the road around the next corner. She asked him
whether he was concerned and then left him to ponder how concerned
he should be. Wes spent the next 4km walking with a 6-foot log on
his shoulder and a large rock in his other hand. He also opted to
remove his headphones. All this drama wa |